Chef Alex, the crème de la crème at the Pâtisserie Riviera
As he did for ten years in his native Russia, Chef Alex now takes part in a cookery show broadcast every Saturday on TV Monaco, the latest channel in Monaco's audiovisual landscape - © Pâtisserie Riviera
Located on Boulevard des Moulins, the establishment, which opened in 1955, is an institution in Monaco.
Everyone’s busy in the back room. The festive season is a crucial time for the staff. Chef Alex, who runs the pastry shop along with Nikolai Zhur, has been up since 4 am. He welcomes us into the little office between the kitchens and the store, amidst the Christmas packaging.
Advertising
Born in Moscow, Alexander Seleznev first studied pastry-making in his home country. He knew from an early age, around 10, that his passion would become his profession. “As a child, I loved working with and baking dough, making shortbread, chocolates and Viennese pastries… But there wasn’t much of a variety in Russia, so I soon became interested in sweets from around the world.”
At the age of 17, and motivated to the hilt, young Alexander became enrolled at a specialist hotel and catering college in Moscow, before moving on to the Hotel Métropole there for his first professional experience. “I rubbed shoulders with chefs from all over the world who passed on their expertise in their countries’ specialities,” he says. Italian tiramisu, French éclairs, American cheesecake… for Chef Alex, it was all a piece of cake!
For his career’s sake, Alexander knew he had to go for broke and enter culinary competitions. He won the title of “Best Pastry Chef in Moscow” in 2000 and, the icing on the cake, “Best Pastry Chef in Russia” in 2001, as well as many other awards.
The pastry chef, then in his thirties, opened his first business in Moscow with his team-mate Nikolai. He took part in a TV cookery show in Russia and began writing books. “I did a lot of studying and testing, and I wanted to pass on everything I’d learnt. So I started out on my own, but then a publisher contacted me. I’ve written 50 recipe books and sold a total of 1 million copies,” smiles Alexander who, at the same time, ran a vocational school in Moscow for two years.
The dream premises
But his lifelong goal was the French Riviera. As luck would have it, a pastry shop became available in the heart of Monte-Carlo. The former owners were retiring and closing down the family business. A godsend for these third owners, who instantly fell in love with the premises.
“I loved everything about it. The kitchens, the dining room, the terrace… I said to myself, ‘This is my dream’ .” But the Russian pastry chef had to win over the Monegasques’ palates and take their traditions on board. “We don’t celebrate Easter in Russia, for example, and we don’t serve logs or macaroons. So I studied what people liked here, and then I put some more unusual products on display.” You’re probably wondering what the pastry chef’s favourite dessert is. Tarte Tatin. It doesn’t stay on the plate for long.
The concept, designed by Caterina Reviglio Sonnino, is enchanting and whimsical, especially during the festive season – © Monaco Tribune
Since then, the 50-year-old has also developed sugar-free, gluten-free, egg-free and lactose-free pastries, but his speciality is still cakes made to order, for the creative aspect. One of the most iconic is the one he made for the wedding of Louis and Marie Ducruet in July 2019. A fabulous seven-tier wedding cake with a cascade of over 200 sugarpaste flowers and the bride and groom’s initials.
Not to sugarcoat matters, Alexander doesn’t really go in for the kind of ‘pastry show’ some others put on, on Instagram. But he’s still very active on social media: “What I love is helping my community discover the most beautiful parts of the Côte d’Azur.”
Far from crumbling like a cookie, the chef’s sense of wonder about the area is still growing. “Whenever I’m out and about, I pull out my phone and do the tourist guide thing. I’d like to live here for the rest of my life. I particularly like Monaco because of the climate and because it’s safe. You can go out dressed up, and it’s a country that encourages businesses,” says the chef. Good news for Monegasques and residents with a sweet tooth.
For the festive season…
You’ll be able to find the Pâtisserie Riviera in one of the chalets, just a rock cake’s throw away from the Place du Casino on Avenue d’Ostende. So you can sample the delicious treats by the chef and his team there until January 15. Candied chestnuts, gingerbread, chocolates, truffles, there is a wide choice of treats for yourself or your loved ones, including gift baskets for under the tree.