Monaco and the Côte d’Azur, where Michelin stars shine bright
The emblematic culinary guide’s star presentation ceremony recognised several of the region’s chefs.
On Monday 18 March, the Palais des Congrès conference centre in Tours hosted the Michelin Guide event, which honoured 62 new establishments in France, including six in Monaco, the Alpes-Maritimes and the Var. Unfortunately, there was no repeat of last year’s stability, as three Var establishments were downgraded.
Two new stars for Monaco
Just nine months after opening, Les Ambassadeurs by Christophe Cussac at the Hôtel Métropole was awarded two stars. These are in addition to the nine held collectively by six establishments in the Principality. Chef Christophe Cussac “brilliantly navigates between a pure-bred Gallic culinary line-up and more modern recipes, all of which with the Mediterranean as baseline,” reports the critic. There is a special mention for the restaurant’s “incredible bread and dessert trolleys”. In fact, the restaurant also won the Passion Dessert award thanks to pastry chef Patrick Mesiano.
This year, none of the Monegasque restaurants’ stars lost their shine. The Louis XV Alain Ducasse keeps its three stars, while the Blue Bay, now with Marcel Ravin‘s name attached, holds on to its two stars following its refurbishment. Yannick Alléno’s restaurant at the Hôtel Hermitage, Pavyllon Monte-Carlo, and Le Grill at the Hôtel de Paris also retain their respective stars. Finally, two other restaurants each keep their star: Rampoldi, Table d’Antonio Salvatore and Yoshi, the only Japanese starred restaurant on the Côte d’Azur.
Five new award-winning establishments on the French Riviera
While only one Côte d’Azur restaurant, Château Eza, was awarded a first star last year, there are five new additions to the 2024 Michelin Guide list.
Closer to Marseille than Monaco, Fabien Ferré, at La Table du Castellet, became the youngest three-star chef, at the age of 35. According to the critic, “Fabien Ferré is working his magic. He has an artist’s sensitivity to Mediterranean produce.” Pastry chef François Luciano was also honoured, with the Passion Dessert prize.
Heading over to Saint-Tropez, La Terrasse – Cheval Blanc was awarded its first star. Alongside the Cheval Blanc hotel’s three-starred La Vague d’Or, this establishment is “The quintessence of French art de vivre” according to the Guide.
On the border between the Alpes-Maritimes and the Var, the Bessem in Mandelieu was also awarded its first star. Chef Bessem Ben Abdallah “brings a deft touch to a delicate Mediterranean brand of cuisine,” says the critic.
Last but not least, in Nice, not one but two establishments were awarded Michelin stars. Racines, by Bruno Cirino and José Vidal, offers a unique vegetarian menu made up of organic fruit and vegetables. The guide applauds “kitchen garden cuisine using ingredients that are picked only when perfectly ripe. Their talented craftsmanship shines the spotlight on characteristic Mediterranean produce, like garlic, olive oil and basil.” Lorenzo Ragni and Florencia Montes, the Franco-Argentine couple at the helm of Onice , “now cook together to create sharp, punchy dishes that reflect the seasons and the local catch; they also strike out with the occasional bold – and most welcome – flavour combinations,” according to the Michelin Guide.
If you have a sweet tooth, two other pastry chefs from the region were awarded the Passion Dessert prize: Julia Canavate, head pastry chef at Ceto in Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, and Pierre-Jean Quinonero at Le Cap in Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat.
Unfortunately, the 2024 edition downgraded 31 establishments, three of which are in the Var: Les Oliviers in Bandol, René’ Sens in La Cadière-d’Azur and L’hostellerie de l’Abbaye in La Celle.